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Turn-of-the-Century
posted January 8, 2025
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    The Turn-of-the-Century Girl has a deep appreciation for all things analogue: Elliott Smith, spending time in the dark room developing her film, smoking weed out of a joint. She’s always been fascinated in darkness, in troubled characters, but has grown out of the naivety she had to indulge a savior complex on druggy men. As a woman, she’s intelligent, well-spoken, easily distracted but witty, an artist, an introvert. She has deep, esoteric knowledge on things like large-format cameras and architectural styles. She finds inspiration in other women who have the same kind of old-world charisma: the ill-fated Evelyn Nesbit, the ill-fated Francesca Woodman, the ill-fated…hmm…Well, what do you expect from someone who’s wearing a dress that’s over a hundred years old?

   The Turn-of-the-Century vibe is imbued with Charles Dana Gibson illustrations, whimsical art nouveau details, delicate lace, an arts-and-crafts sensibility, early cinema stars. It reaches slightly beyond the Edwardian era (1901-1914) and includes Victorian elements from the late 19th century, as well as early 1920s motifs. Like RenFairytale, Turn-of-the-Century isn’t so much about replicating the actual styles of the era, it’s more about reverently bringing them into the present day. And this fashion subgenre has been around forever. Back in the ‘60s and ‘70s, Biba (which, ironically, turned out to be a progenitor of fast-fashion) was a London fixture that sold the art nouveau look in the ‘60s and ‘70s.

Love the exaggerated Gibson Girl bouffant.

  I’ve always loved how buying secondhand clothing, especially vintage, meant taking part in some kind of obscure historical legacy, like each garment had a story of its own. For senior prom, I went to my favorite vintage store and purchased a hand-sewn, seafoam-colored 1970s dress for $20 because it fit me like a glove. Whoever made that dress, or commissioned it, was now an indelible part of my adolescence. A few years ago, I became really interested in antique clothing, things that were at least a hundred years old. It’s like going inside a midcentury modern house and seeing a conversation pit versus stepping inside a century-old building with creaky wooden floorboards and mysterious doorways.

    I started looking online for Edwardian-era garments and found that a lot of the time you can find things that are pretty reasonably priced. I’ve since purchased a shirtwaist, a corset cover, a cotton puff-sleeve blouse, and probably a few other things, none of which I’ve spent much money on. In person, you can definitely find things at curated vintage stores, or you can do the hard work and go to estate sales, trunk sales, those kinds of things. If I had a car, I’d love to do that–imagine coming across something like a forgotten trunk in a barn and inside are a bunch of well-preserved dresses? It happens more often than you’d think. One of my “white whales” is a calico-fabric blouse with gathered statement sleeves. I’d love to invest in a bodice, but I don’t know how practical it would be. 


Muses: Francesca Woodman, Carol Kane, Alice Liddell

The Turn-of-the-Century Girl loves seeing things that make her gasp with joy. A priceless antique Rene Lalique dragonfly brooch, a well-preserved Stickley chair, Charles Comfort Tiffany glass. It’s all about the details, the artistry, the care and sensitivity taken to please the eye. That being said, comfort is key, so don’t stuff yourself into a corset or anything. Loose-fitting skirts, breezy lace, low-heeled shoes do just fine.


Clockwise: Antique white cotton bodice, Charles Dana Gibson drawing, Edwardian yellow gold and seed pearl pendant, Edwardian camisole, Antique Victorian Tiara with rose cut diamonds, Edwardian tiered ivory dress

     Drape yourself in the elegant, feminine, and fantastical styles that encapsulate both sophistication and childlike wonder. Dedicate yourself to your craft, whether it’s weaving, oil painting, or jewelry design. Fashion yourself as the subject of an Alphonse Mucha illustration, surrounded by flourishes and sunbursts. Why? You deserve it.